Volcanic Wines from a Shifting Landscape
Travelling the 2,600 miles from North to South through Chile is like starting on the surface of the moon and ending up in Tolkien’s Middle Earth. From the world’s driest desert, the Atacama, to the ice-capped rawness of Tierra del Fuego, Chile is truly a country of extremes. Flanked on the east by the majestic snow-capped Andes and the west by the vast expanses of the Pacific Ocean, it averages a mere 110 miles in width.
Volcanic Impact
When we add over 2,000 volcanoes into the melting pot, of which around 500 may still be active, we are left with quite extraordinary geological diversity. Much has been written recently about volcanic wines, and they have become somewhat of a sommelier favourite. From Santorini, Tenerife and Etna to Campania and Soave there are a host of fascinating volcanic wines. It is interesting therefore that not many people are very aware of Chile’s incredible volcanic credentials. So, what are the effects of volcanic soils on wines? For me it is all about a piercing freshness, salinity and minerality that they transfer to the wines. They produce wines that are so utterly lip-smacking and deliciously drinkable.
The Winemaker’s Perspective
I have long been a fan of Bodega Volcanes and their intriguing project, which focusses on vines planted on volcanic soils throughout Chile. This allows the team to pick and choose vineyard sites throughout Chile that can produce wines that fits with their unique project. Winemaker Pilar Diaz explains, ‘Our philosophy is to create wines that reflect their unique soils, formed by volcanic activity over millions of years and that are true expressions of their origin, displaying the purity and typicity of the specific grape without excessive oak that can mask the unique flavours. The chance to source grapes from a range of denominations gives the portfolio more diversity but, in each wine, my style is consistent as I aim to really manifest the volcanic rocks and ash by ultimately producing wines that are more vibrant and intense with balanced tannins and acidity.’
Embracing Terroir
The shift over the past decade or so in Chile towards really focusing on site expression is to be applauded. Volcanes as a project really epitomizes this, and that move towards lower oak usage as well has been an important step towards helping to achieve this. I was very pleased when Condor Wines started working with Volcanes as I think it really adds to the current Chilean portfolio that they have. These are wines that offer great value for money as well, which is always welcome news to consumers.
New to Condor Wines
These wines really add another dimension to the Condor portfolio and I am sure they will be a great success with Condor’s customers.
Volcanes Tectonia Chardonnay, 2019, Malleco Valley, 93 points
This has a wonderful nose, showing subtle smoky, reductive gunflint notes alongside white peach and excellently judged subtle toasty oak notes. The palate has a core of fresh, zippy acidity and a ripe mouthfeel with toasted hazelnut and soft cedary notes in the background. A superb wine that shows why Malleco is such an exciting area for Chardonnay.
Volcanes Tectonia Grenache Petite Sirah Grenache Mourvedre, 2019, Central Valley, 94 points
A gorgeous black pastille fruit-led nose with violets, liquorice and a subtle smokiness. A ripe and rounded palate with a nice core of fresh acidty, soft and chalky tannins and bags of vibrant fruit. A long juicy finish – very impressive indeed. I would love to see more Southern Rhone blends like this from Chile!
Parinacota Syrah Carignan, 2019, Maule Valley. 92 points
Rich and inviting nose with black and red fruits, black olives and garrigue. A succulent palate with dried fig, smoky notes and firm tannins that are integrating very well. A structured and textured wine that has plenty of ripe fruit and is still evolving really well.
Blog by Alistair Cooper MW
